Asked to think of Colombia, most people will imagine a
war-torn country overrun with gun wielding cocaine cartels. This
image couldn't be further from the truth.
Despite a long running
and well publicized internal conflict that renders vast swathes of
the country out of bounds, Colombia continues to exceed projections
and expectations with regards to its current tourism boom.
Naturally, figures -
collected by Colombian Immigration Authorities and the Banco de La
Republica - show that a large portion of tourists to Colombia are
from the neighboring countries of Ecuador and Venezuela but more
strikingly, despite US State Department warnings, citizens of the
United States make up the second largest number, 235,000
individuals, and represent 22 per cent of the total annual tally.
Out of the 1,100,000 foreigners that arrived in Colombia in 2007
roughly 17 per cent came from European locations.
This tourism bonanza
that is a veritable tale of rags to riches for Colombia is a
turnaround from the dark days of steady narco-terrorism headed by
the infamous cartels of Cali and Medillin. Colombia, long a major
cruise-liner destination has re-established itself in recent years
pulling away from the grim figures in 2003 that saw only 42,600
passengers choosing to come this way to exceeding 126,000 just four
years later in 2007.
Proexport – A Colombian
institution set up to promote Colombian exports, international
tourism in Colombia and foreign investment in Colombia – is
supremely optimistic in the possible growth in years to come despite
gloomy prospects of a worldwide recession predicted by experts.
Said Angela Maria Claro
the Sub Director of Information for Proexport, “Colombia’s touristic
growth is well above that of the World growth as a whole and we are
looking into specific profiles of tourist such as one who stays
longer and spends more money."
“We are encouraging
cruise-line companies to start their tours here in Colombia and this
will mean that their passengers can come to a place like Cartagena
and spend a few days before boarding the ship and then on return at
the end of their voyage they stay a further few days. Alongside this
we are actively promoting Colombia as an unrivalled location for
film production, for example last year saw the release of Love in
the Time of Cholera filmed in Cartagena.”
Certainly figures show
that Colombia’s tourism industry is growing but are targets being
set at lofty ideals? Proexport aims to hit the 4 million tourist
mark in 2010. Given that Colombia’s tourist growth from 2005 to 2006
was 13.1 per cent and then from 2006 to 2007 was 13.6 per cent that
means that the increase in 2008 must be an overwhelming 29.8 per
cent.
It may be too much. If
the projected recession in the US hits as predicted then surely the
all valuable US tourist will defer from holidaying in 2008.
Claro thinks otherwise:
“The US market is one that includes 250 million people and we
haven’t even scratched the surface.”
Perhaps Colombia is
perfectly prepared for the economic downturn…after all the country
has nurtured an unprecedented tourism boom in recent years despite
being in the midst of a 40 year old internal conflict.
Colombia's third city
and the world capital of salsa entices tourists into its balmy
climes to enjoy late nights, fine dining and an impressive arts
scene.
Cali,
geographically important as the industrial powerhouse in Colombia’s
southwest state of Valle del Cauca, is an attractive prospect
for any potential visitor planning on visiting the pacific coast or
making journey to or from Ecuador overland. Cali is gradually
realizing its potential as a tourist destination not least in the
cultural attractions and nightlife within the city but the variety
of options that make for pleasant day trips.
History and Contemporary Facts
Founded in 1536 by
Sebastian de be alcazar that also founded Quito in Ecuador,
Cali has always been strategically important for trade and therefore
grew quickly. As with most Colombian cities Santiago de Cali played
an important part on the road to independence. In the 1980’s the
city played home to the Cali cartel, one of the most notorious
cocaine mafias.
Attractions
Watched over by the
statue of the Cristo Rey and the Tres Cruces, Cali is
blessed with fine weather, salsa mad inhabitants, beautiful women
and a plethora of fashionable barrios whose boutiques and
restaurants would not look out of place in Los Angeles or Miami.
Where to Eat
For those with no
budgetary constraints they are advised to head to the up market
barrios of Granada or El Pennon where they can feast
on gastronomical wonders in fashionable establishments. Granada is
an area of ten blocks that oozes style and substance. Whatever the
case do not miss out on the opportunity to dine on the exquisite
piangua clam harvested from the roots of mangroves on the
pacific coast or the delights of Vallecaucano cuisine. Another option
is the barrio San Fernando and the environs of the Parque del
Perro
where a new dining area has sprung up.
Museums
To enjoy
exhibitions of Pre-Colombian artefacts then head to the Museo
Arqueologico La Merced. Also in this district are a number of
other worthwhile museums including the Museo de Oro Calima, Museo
Religioso y Colonial San Francisco and not far from the towering
Hotel Intercontinental is the recommended Museo de Arte Moderno
La Tertulia.
San Antonio
The colonial barrio
of San Antonio can be visited in an afternoon. Head up through the
quaint streets before lunch to take advantage of the midday deals
before wandering to the leafy hillside park frequented by necking
couples. The San Antonio chapel is located at the top of the park
and was completed in 1747. Inside there is an ornate baroque altar.
Take a breather here at the top of the hill and rest in the shade
and admire the views of the city sprawling out before you before
lunching at one of the arty cafes and restaurants located here.
Cali Zoo
The authorities of Cali
zoo have focused on the preservation and conservation of species
endemic to the region and the aviary is particularly worthwhile
allowing visitors to get up close and personal for photographing
rare species like the cock of the rock.
Medellin - as has been frequently reported in recent years - has
turned the corner from the dark days of its Escobarian past and is
powering forward.
Walking Tour
In a day the
visitor can cover most of what the old centre of Medellin has to
offer. There is no better nor less hurried way to see this part of
town than by foot.
Start the day at the
Basilica Metropolitana de Medellin located at the far end of the
Carrera Junin. Enjoy a tinto coffee in the park while
marvelling at this immense brick structure.
From here then walk
along the Carrera Junin browsing the shops and businesses in this
downtown sector. As you reach the end cross over the road and make
your way to the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de La Candelaria.
A colonial style construction it stands at odds with its environment
of 1970’s high rise office blocks.
Just a few blocks from
here, the other side of the Metro station can be found the
attractions of the Parque Berrio with its Museums and
Botero sculptures. The Museo de Antioquia is the large
building towards the back of the square and holds a permanent
collection of 119 pieces donated by Fernando Botero himself. Pose
for photos in front of the grotesque reclining lady and then move on
a further few blocks south.
The Parque San
Antonio really isn’t a park at all. It more resembles an
enormous parking lot in front of a shopping mall. But, of interest
to the visitor are the two Botero sculptures here. The original Bird
of Peace sculpture was placed here by Botero and was subsequently
blown up and a dozen or so passers by tragically killed, by a
suspected FARC bomb. Instead of replacing or moving the
mangled sculpture, in brave defiance, Botero created an identical
sculpture to the original and placed it alongside the bomb affected
version.
Move down from the
Parque San Antonio to the Estacion Central where historically
all rail travel into Medellin would pass. Now a visitor’s centre one
can relax with a cold juice or another coffee here before moving
through the large buildings that make up the Town Hall of Medellin
and passing by the Plaza de Cisneros in front of the city’s
library.
From here you will be
able to see the Edificio Inteligente – literally the Intelligent
Building – which was built with environmental features in mind.
Before reaching this building pass through the Parque de los Pies
Descalzos where the emphasis is on recreation. Fountains are in
place so that student’s fresh from visiting the children’s museum
here can play in the jets.
The Cerro Nutibara
is easily in view now as the only geographical feature in this area
of the Aburra Valley. At 80 meters in height one can gain a
reasonable view of the downtown area and view a Pueblito Paisa,
constructed here to show what a typical Antioquian village should
resemble.
Tips for the tourist
Take the metro –
Medellin’s new Metro system constructed in 1995 is the choicest way
of getting around the city. Single journeys cost $0.70 and the
service is clean, safe and air conditioned.
Hang out at Parque Lleras
Definitely a place
to come and watch the beautiful people, Parque Lleras is located in
the fashionable area of El Poblado. From Thursday’s on people
congregate here to meet friends and have a cocktail before hitting
one of the nearby clubs.
Theatres
Check out local
listings as Medellin is gradually becoming known for its cultural
activities. Very often free performances are put on at the Theatres
in Medellin. Recently one could catch the city’s Symphonic Orchestra
performing the Carmina Burana.
Catch a Football Game
If you are in Medellin
when two of the cities teams come head to head then try your best to
secure a ticket. Nacional of Medellin was Pablo Escobar’s team and
is a Colombian powerhouse. Medellin’s other side are in a slump of
late, but this game is always different to the form book and will
give you the opportunity of seeing true South American passion.
Founded in1533 by Pedro de Heredia, colonial Cartagena bewitches
Tourists and Colombians alike.
Gateway to America,
Spain’s first city on the South American main, Cartagena witnessed
the shipment of Peruvian silver to Europe, the galleons from
Seville, the piracy of Drake and Hawkins and sheltered behind its
thick and impregnable walls, remained intact.
The origins and
prosperity of this city are undoubtedly inextricably linked due to
its location and the security of its port and the wealth inherent in
the urban centre is reflected in the extravagant balconies and
ornate doorways of the Ciudad Vieja (the old city). What were once
homes to aristocrats and merchants are now guesthouses, gift shops
and museums.
Declared a UNESCO world
heritage site in 1984, Cartagena remains the most popular tourist
destination in Colombia, in part due to the security of the city and
its popularity as a destination for cruise ships. It was, for a
number of the years the only city in Colombia where US presidents
dared to tread.
More elegant and far
removed from Bogota’s Candelaria, the bay, the tiled rooftops and
the multicolored colonial walls of the Ciudad Vieja exude humidity
and a sticky closeness familiar to those with experience of
Caribbean weather patterns and coastal attitudes. To walk in the
midday heat is a folly and solely the refuge of tourists who know no
better. Cartageneros wisely shut up shop move to air conditioned or
well ventilated retreats while beach lovers flee to nearby offshore
islands or to the spit of land that makes up the architectural mess
of Boca Grande.
The atmosphere, the sea
air, the street vendors, everything feels like a film setting for a
Gabriel Garcia Marquez novel. Indeed Gabo himself spent pivotal and
formative years here as a journalist and aspiring writer.
There is a sultry
decadence here that has bewitched writers and wayward souls since
time immemorial. Has it something to do with the sorcery of the
fickle mistress the Caribbean? Is there something in the air, or are
people rendered slightly unhinged and light-headed from the tall
measures of rum in the potent Cuba libres served at the bars that
line the streets and portions of the old city wall?
Cartagena is the ideal
place for a conference, but will the participants stay faithful to
the event they are supposed to attend. With colonial treasures to
discover, antiquated streets, museums, galleries and shops to
peruse, do people go missing? Do the Congresos and Festivales seem
thin on bodies? Are there visible empty seats in the conference
auditoriums?
Whatever the case, this
captivating Caribbean jewel must be visited. From the Puerta del
Reloj and the Plaza de la Aduana, to the Plaza de los Coches and the
Calle Santo Domingo, Cartagena will cast a lasting spell on you.